The new outpost of Michelin-starred London chef Clare Smyth, Oncore has harbour views everywhere and a pointy-end menu to match. Whether opting for the seven-course tasting menu or a three-course selection, you’re instantly elevated to the excitement of “The Beginning”, teensy tastes delivered on sea-fronds, pebbles, gilt skewers and mossy logs.

From a rich peamousse, curd and parmesan bomb (aka gougere) to the springy lightness of eel tart, it’s easy to slip into the sheer luxury of it all. A breathtakingly pretty garden of succulents, blossoms, lilly pillies and beans encases a floral masterpiece – rose-rimmed petals of kingfish and radish in a sea-vegetable broth. The signature Clare Smyth potato, poached for eight hours in kombu butter and embellished with crisps, roe and micro herbs, has a seaweed beurre blanc you’d happily spoon up for the rest of your days.

Sauces are poured tableside, wines are matched (from a heavily European list with a few well-known Aussie heavy-hitters) and plates are swept away. Quite simply, this is serious, traditional, immaculate fine-dining in a special occasion room with breathtaking views.

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