The humble suburban local has evolved a lot in recent years. Take Summer Hill’s One Penny Red, for instance. It opened three years ago in the stunning heritage-listed former Summer Hill Post Office; the name refers to a British stamp as a homage to the building’s former use. It’s a stunning space with a homely foyer, dimly lit bar upstairs and a smart-casual downstairs dining space of warm floorboards and dark bistro furnishings. And the food and wine are absolutely worth writing home about.

Waitstaff are self-assured, while co-owner David Murphy’s wine expertise is on full show. His list is accessible and adventurous. You can grab a tipple and snack upstairs at Vernon’s Bar, but downstairs is where RJ Lines opens the envelope of contemporary cuisine. Grilled sardine fillets, tomato, parsley and garlic cream on rye crispbread make for an ideal amuse-bouche. Jerusalem artichoke chips crown a grass-fed beef tartare given citrus finger lime exclamations with each bite, then the twang of fermented cabbage brings balance to rich, tamarind-glazed and smoked pork neck stuffed with morcilla.

Just make sure you order the smoked and wood-roasted Thirlmere chicken – think glistening skin, pinkish, just-cooked flesh and textured bread sauce for good measure. If you’re dining in groups try the ‘trust the chef’ menu and let sommelier David Murphy match wines too – he’s been round the traps and an absolute pro.

Before heading upstairs for a nightcap, put a stamp on the experiences with a slice of the tart of the day topped with vanilla bean ice cream.

Must-eat dish: Thirlmere whole wood roasted chicken
Instagram: @onepennyred2130