Oranahas been recognised not only by this guide, twice, and now by other national judges as Restaurant of the Year, yet its location is still somewhat undercover, an unadorned outside staircase from an East End laneway, a virtually unmarked door.

Yet upon entering, multiple staff greetings are personal, the room a warm yet understated design, with a now open kitchen in one corner. The focus, without view or horizon, remains entirely on the table and menu driven by high profile owner/chef Jock Zonfrillo’s creative use of Australian indigenous ingredients.

The evening menu is around a dozen “courses” consisting of 18-20 individual elements; a Friday lunch version is about half that. At your table a ball of dough is proving, then taken away to be freshly baked, while a signature first course of damper cooked on coals with lamb butter, also at the table, remains an aromatic thrill. Dishes come with beach succulents, native fruits, herbs and spices, “chef-splained” on arrival. Proteins can include, depending on seasonal abundance, crocodile (even as a consommé), Coorong mullet, marron and kangaroo (a dish with avocado and lilly pilly fruit is sensational).

A drinks-matching option is well worth exploring, too, with a creative yet intelligent range of domestic and international wines with others like sake and cider adding liquid thrills to this unique gastronomic adventure.

This review originally appeared on adelaidenow.com.au.