Accented with gold and perched right on the water, Ormeggio has the soft elegance and understated class of a top restaurant. Although the entrance, through a boat-sales floor, is jolting, you can’t get closer to The Spit without getting wet.

Chef Alessandro Pavoni draws you away with the Trip Through Italy menu, which takes you from Piedmont to Sicily and more, with almost unplaceable Asian hints, whether in the calamari stock underpinning toothsome risotto, or the rice flour batter on a snack of fried eggplant parmigiana with tomato powder, mozzarella and basil.

A small slab of porchetta steers via Tuscany and the outstanding wine list takes you wherever you want in Italy.

Must eat: Bottoni filled with parmigiano reggiano – roasted malt