The dining room with its white stucco walls, rattan furniture and well-loved Turkish rugs resembles a luxe beach house, overlooking yachts bobbing in d’Albora Marinas. A meat-free menu inspired by the Puglia region revolves around sustainable seafood.

The wine list is an encyclopaedia of Italian varietals – a Franciacorta DOCG sparkling ideal for the inevitable seafood feast, featuring dishes such as carnaroli risotto tinted nettle-green by cime di rapa, topped with Shark Bay scallops in a sparkling wine foam, with southern calamari stirred through its plump grains. MSC-certified swordfish cooked over charcoal and plated with fermented chilli and wilted Tuscan kale is as satisfying as any steak. Add Royal Blue potato wedges and you have our new favourite fish and chips.

Order the rosemary focaccia at your peril: it’s impossible to stop at one wedge. Coppa gelato is a theatrical finale, the meringue crowning the delizia al limone seared by a blowtorch tableside, then finished with lemon zest that fills the room with citrus scent. The Amalfi Coast by way of Mosman.

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