Seated in the shadows of the Oracle towers, diners may not be able to see the surf, but they’re served in the relaxed spirit of the Mediterranean coast. Italian labels dominate the exploratory list of vinos, bianco and rosso well represented by the glass, for those who haven’t been swayed by the suave cocktail list.

Orzo’s fare is far from stodgy, so feel free to break the bread rule on the house focaccia and slather it in mousse-like anchovy butter. Its salty snap is echoed in a seaweed broth, setting off gnocchi peppered with prawns, mussels and kingfish.

While there’s no bad choice when it comes to pasta made in-house daily with OO flour, the swift spicy kick of the cavatelli with sausage, cime di rapa and roasted nduja sauce should see it on to any shortlist. The trouble comes when tossing up between mains including barbecue pork neck and grilled lamb cutlet – trusting in the five-course chef’s tasting may make life easier.

This is casual fine dining with a menu that marks a genuine departure from the Italian restaurant norm.

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