The fiery Italian CBD restaurant spreads guests across the bar and dining room for prime viewing of the central kitchen. It’s all modern Italian eats, with a few pastas and mains (and chef’s menu and wine pairings to save hassle), with the aim of the game to share.

Seasonal mains change daily, offering up such rock star dishes as King George whiting spaghetti – the fish lightly seasoned and thrown over the hibachi to achieve a smoky, crisp finish before it’s draped over al dente spaghetti tumbled with a koji and sardine sauce.

Pair with a skin-contact trebbiano to amp up the umami factor. But dessert is where it’s truly at: a surprising ruby chocolate cream is housed in a tiled dome of thinly-sliced salted radish, which is peeled back to reveal a soft rhubarb centre – it’s a work of art.

Osteria Ilaria has stepped out from behind the shadow of its famous older sibling next door and is making its own mark, serving spectacularly modern dishes with purpose and passion.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.