Along with its more famous sibling next door (Tipo 00), Osteria Ilaria is redefining what Italian food is in a city long obsessed with tagliatelle alla ragu and pesce alla griglia.

This always-bustling trattoria might be less pasta-focused than Tipo, but overlooking it here is a trap for young players, for such plates as nettle pappardelle tossed through a rich, sticky braise of goat are simply outstanding. 

But it’s in the elevation of the familiar – tiny bursts of finger lime to counter the richness of perfectly cooked and seasoned wagyu rump cap alongside bitter cima di rape; a coating of breadcrumbs across charred and smoked pumpkin – where Osteria truly shines.

While Insta-fame precedes the octopus, its chewy tentacles and overly powerful ‘nduja base make it ripe for retirement, though tiles of tender, supple calamari served with rich braised lentils and thin apple discs quickly makes amends. 

A wine list of serious ambition traversing esoteric grapes and lands with purpose and excitement equals interesting drinking across price points. Though paper napkins and service that can, when busy, err to the perfunctory can dim the lustre, Osteria delivers bang-for-buck good times, at once worldy and very Melbourne.