No sophomore slump for the Tipo 00 crew, instead, the team behind Melbourne’s cult pasta bar has doubled down on their domination of redefining Italian in the city by opening a classy osteria right next door.

While Tipo introduced a new generation to the simple pleasures of pasta done properly, this osteria is forging a modern – and very Melbourne – interpretation of Italian traditions. That might look like whole baby octopus, splayed in all its charred, tentacled glory across a fiery puddle of the spreadable Calabrian sausage nduja to create one of this year’s don’t-miss dishes; or a fat finger of ‘pecorino cheesecake’, where a salty-cheesy wobble of set cream is attended by chunky pine mushrooms’ or, even excellent house-made pork sausage spiked with liver that’s served with a sharp rhubarb puree and a scattering of spiced crumbs.

Charred cime di rapa teamed with creamed corn and kernels blackened on the grill is a win for the veg side of the ledger, while mains tackle proteins with equal respect in the likes of pork scotch served with a dice of stewed apple, and dry-aged porterhouse with marrow butter.

It’s clever, original cooking that’s complemented by a drinks list that adds an impressive collection of beer and creative cocktails to a huge cellar of wines spanning plenty of styles, varietals and price points, served by a switched-on team led from the front by co-owner Luke Skidmore’s quiet, calm brand of hospitality.

Osteria makes it two for two for the team and for that, we’re all winners.

Must eat dish: Baby octopus with nduja
Instagram: @osteriailaria