But the crew behind South Melbourne pasta palace, Park St Pasta & Wine, are doing things differently at their new carb-loaded eatery.

It’s less about chef Angus Cadden’s tagliatelle tricks and more about soul-warming Mediterranean cooking with a twist – which explains the Spanish ham. Cellophane-like ribbons of the acorn-fed pork fall in a heap on the plate, next to wads of crimpy-edged gnocco fritto (fried dough) buried beneath a blizzard of pecorino cheese and pepper.

Fear not, Cadden hasn’t called time on pasta, instead he’s cranked up production, with Osteria Renata the HQ for a new purpose-built lab that’ll feed both restaurants and a future grocery line. And there’s still plenty of pasta to try here: such as impeccably pleated quadratti parcels of meaty mushroom and mascarpone on a drool-worthy Parmigiano Reggiano fondue, and an enormous rock lobster spaghetti that requires two days’ notice. 

Other plates include veal cotoletta powdered with cheese, pepper and fried capers, which pairs perfectly with a glass of Chalmers Nero d’Avola on tap, crisp Italian lagers or a spritz. It’s like a Euro vacation via High St.

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