Oter means “to remove, or take off”, though it equally could mean “a vision of modern French bistronomy seen through the prism of a Melbourne cobblestoned laneway restaurant”.

Tom Hunter and Mykal and Kate Bartholomew (of Coda and Tonka) have created a subterranean world of non-interventionist wines and slate-sleek surfaces which, 18 months in, has settled into an accommodatingly comfortable groove.

Crunchy crusted baguette to spread with churned butter swimming in buttermilk shows the core principles of hospitality remain strong. A single mussel served in its cooking broth with soft poached leek shows restrained elegance and the flavour-first philosophy of the kitchen helmed by French-Canadian Jordan Clay.

A newfound focus on vegetables – charred broccoli stalks with macadamia cream, golden beets with smoked egg – doesn’t detract from the carnivorous pleasures this sexy space still provides. An exceptional tartare of lamb comes with a one-two punch of nettle and horseradish, while a puckering raspberry ‘ketchup’ proves the perfect foil for two ruby-coloured, coffee-rubbed pieces of kangaroo loin.

Smoky pork sausage stuffed with comte and served simply with a charred quarter of red cabbage is a minimalist brilliance, while sweet swimmer crab teamed with toasted hazelnuts is a refreshingly bright delight.

Wines focus on small French, natural producers and though they tend to the high end, you can be sure you’ll be poured something that’s not euphemistically “interesting” but instead delicious and a perfect match for those so Frenchie, so chic plates.

Must eat dish: Swimmer crab with hazelnuts
Instagram: @otermelbourne