There’s a revolution going on across Victoria, and it’s red, white and blue. Yes, French food has found a foothold, yet again, and is winning our hearts anew.

Whether it’s steak frites at Ian Curley’s French Saloon in the city, or tarte tatin at Petite Tracteur on the peninsula, or Philippe Mouchel’s rotisserie chook at his new-look basement digs, the French flag is flying high on Melbourne’s favourite new eateries.

And then there’s Florent Gerardin at Oter, marching firmly to be beat of his new bistro drum, where he’s confidently rewriting what it means to eat French in Melbourne in 2016.

Pronounced “o-tay,” it’s an unashamedly hoof to toof affair, where you’ll be served all the iron-y, blood-y, pancreatic squishy bits (vegans, look away now) for the French are nothing if not the most sustainable of eaters.

Already a signature dish – la tete de veau – serves as both philosophical and technical marker of the kitchen’s ambitions. Gerardin (last seen cooking at Mark Best’s Pei Modern) has sourced calves heads (no mean feat, apparently) and picks the brains, neck, tongue, cheeks and sweetbreads, pressing them into a brick of meat that’s then seared to a crisp. It’s served simply with a pot of razor-sharp sauce gribiche on the side. No adornment necessary. It’s sticky and rich and funky.

A little starter called “truffles and offals” is similarly big-flavoured, where a wobbly-yolked slow-cooked egg comes in a jar hidden under diced chicken hearts, blitzed liver and a generous showing of heady truffles. It’s deeply decadent, inspiringly bold, unapologetic but downright delicious.

The no-waste ethos – prevalent without proselytising – extends to la nageoire, where fish wing – this night kingfish, but whatever is supplied – is thoroughly picked of meat that is then brined, steamed and served under kohlrabi ribbons and a scattering of pumpkin seeds. It’s another winner.

From excellent bread served with even better butter (house churned) along with a plate of tiny radishes and salt that hit soon after seating, through the unmissable selection of tarts to end (that are displayed in all their seductive glory on the open kitchen counter, as are the wheels of cheese singing an equally alluring siren song), this is an exciting, accomplished offering that already feels fully formed.

That’s less of a surprise given Tom Hunter, Mykal and Kate Bartholomew (of Coda/Tonka) are behind this repurposing of what was the brilliant basement Japanese eatery Yu-u. The hard grey surfaces remain, though clever soundproofing keeps things conversation-friendly, while the space benefits from new windows that bring the cobblestones of Oliver Lane in. The open kitchen, around which couples sit, is the star of the space and night.

The wine list is undoubtedly cleverly curated, though with its focus on small French producers and Burgundies with age, is heavily weighted to the three-figure bottle. Be prepared to spend, and you’ll be rewarded.

Just like you will be if you brave the all the bits Gerardin is serving up, for if this is the future of French dining then it’s winning hearts and minds in the best possible way – through our stomach.

Viva this revolution.