More importantly, it also offers a most inviting casual lunch that brings in a horde of locals, resulting in a dining room that bubbles away with friendly service and lots of laughs around the table. As a showcase for Ottelia Wines, 10 choices are available by the glass, 500ml carafe and bottle, with the gaps filled in mostly by other local fizz, beers and spirits.

The menu offers an inventive set of snacks like corn cracker and whipped ricotta, Jerusalem artichoke skin and puree with tiny leeks, and a cute little English muffin with pastrami, relish and pickled jalapeno. You can easily tailor lunch to suit your hunger, with a few mid-sized dishes and a couple of larger, richer serves such as beef short rib, red pepper harissa and shaved fennel, or a slow-braised lamb shoulder with quince and chickpea.

Eight wood-fired pizza options including a kid’s variation are star attractions with excellent, authentic ingredients at centre stage. Much of the produce comes from the restaurant’s own garden or from friends. Desserts are bang on, and filling – definitely try the mille-feuille with seasonal fruit if it’s on. 

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