A string of top-notch restaurants grace the iconic Woolloomooloo finger wharf, but the Fink Group’s Otto boasts longevity and a loyal following. The breezy waterside restaurant has become Sydney’s go-to for special occasions, anniversaries, corporate schmoozing and air-kissing media types who lunch. But it’s not all style over substance.

Start with pepper-crusted North Queensland black kingfish with cucumber, Avruga caviar and chive oil, or jump straight to the pasta, where head chef Richard Ptacnik’s offering is befitting of the dazzling location. The saffron-infused bucatini is tossed with cherry tomatoes, Moreton Bay bugs and lemon oil, and it’s delightfully fresh and light. Matched with a Marche verdicchio from the cracking wine list, it tastes like a sparkling summer day.

Mains usually involve a protein, a puree, some crunch, a few pretty leaves, and something sharp. Whole Moreton Bay Bug tails are perfect, sweetened with nutty garlic butter, while the Byron Bay Berkshire pork cutlet nestles up to parsnip puree, apple, walnuts and prune salsa. It’s tangy, sweet and clever for its balance of flavours.

Otto is technically excellent, marching to its own beat, eschewing the innovative share-plate aspirations of other chefs across the city. But it’s a recipe that works, as it has for more than 15 years and will no doubt continue to do.

Must eat dish: bucatini with cherry tomatoes and Moreton Bay Bugs
Instagram: @ottoristorante