After 25 years, the Turkish stalwart that’s delivered a spice-led magic carpet ride for generations of Canberrans has still got it. Once a lone offering in the suburb of Barton, it’s now amid a thriving swell of restaurants, but still has its nose in front for service and a refined and soulful display that sets a benchmark for this fragrant cuisine.

Serif Kaya’s menu is timeless, with a swag of traditional dishes and a medley of modern interpretations to keep everyone happy. Start with the classic lightly battered zucchini puffs with a dill-and-yoghurt dip, or yufka pastry rolls filled with shredded roasted duck, onions and currants that beg to be dipped in pomegranate yoghurt. The absolute go-to is spiced lamb kofta with a killer baba ghanoush. Ottoman is as delicious today as it was 25 years ago.