All most of us really ever want from a restaurant is an environment that we feel comfortable in, food that makes us want to lick the plate clean and to leave with a feeling like our hard-earned money was put to good use. Well, The Paddo Inn Bar & Grill delivers all – in spades.

Bought 18 months ago by the Solotel Group (Aria, Chiswick), The Paddo Inn was initially a finer dining affair, but co-owner Matt Moran relaunched seven months later with a more casual grill to give locals a place they can drop into and rely on. The understated fit-out benefits from smart lighting and textured cream walls adorned in framed, Matisse-esque black-and-white line drawings.

The service is affable, but self-assured and the wine list walks the tight-rope of accessible familiars and a few New World varieties too.

On the pans, head chef Laura Barratto (Chiswick at the Gallery) shows considered restraint, relying on quality ingredients, strong technique and well-executed cookery. The subtle depth of salmon gravlax finds a few allies in creme fraiche and sweet pickled cucumber. A thick, blushingly pink Berkshire pork cutlet leans on the smoky, charred goodness of cabbage. True to Moran’s ethos, the menu features some of Australia’s best beef producers. The pick, a ruby-red Rangers Valley rump cap that is as texturally enjoyable as it is a big beefy flavour sensation. A delightful custard tart topped with a brulee is bang on.

The Paddo Inn may be a pub restaurant, but it delivers all you need when eating out.

Must-eat dish: Ranger’s Valley Rump Cap
Instagram: @paddoinn