It’s not the portrait of Argentinean screen siren Coco Sarli that you’ll likely first notice. It’s probably not the mural of the Tuscan hillside, nor the sumptuous leather booths, glorious deep red carpets or walls of wine, though impressive they all are.

Rather, it’s the whole splayed beasts roasting by the open asado fire pit that you’ll probably clock upon entering Palermo. This is barbecue, but not as we’ve seen before.

This is the fourth South American restaurant from the team behind San Telmo and Pastuso, and firing up the parrilla grill and stoking the asado here is Ollie Gould – the ex-Stokehouse chef who is back in Melbourne after a stint in Perth – and those slow-roasted meats take pride of place on his menu.

It’s not all show, either. The meat we tried – Gippsland Suffolk lamb and Millbrook suckling pig – is truly exceptional. Soft, rich, smoky yet tender, it’s like a kiss from a lover who sneaks in a ciggie after dinner. These are almost perfect proteins.

The rest of the menu treads a familiar meat-and-malbec path honed at San Telmo over the past six-odd years.

Along with various cuts of beef expertly treated, there’s great grill- branded chorizo, even better suckling pig croquettes that throw shade on almost all others out there, and a nice line-up of vegetables. The broccoli, for instance, charred soft and served with green chilli, anchovy and a dusting of parmesan, is the definitive way to eat your greens.

Add some brilliantly switched-on service – our waiter intercepted our coffees en route to the table so they didn’t arrive before dessert – an extensive range of Argentinean wines served in a handsome space that cleverly nods to the gaucho theme (cow hides, vintage siphon bottles) and you have the complete package. Palermo is simply on fire.