Dining at Paper Daisy is a multifaceted pleasure. First, there is its superb location, just metres from the breaks at Cabarita Beach in northern NSW. Second, the restaurant takes shape in the inviting blue-and-white environs of Halcyon House, the luxurious lodge with cult appeal. Third, and certainly not least, is chef Ben Devlin’s food. When it comes to redefining coastal fare, and marrying the best of land and sea, the former Noma and Esquire chef is on the crest of a wave.

A starter of glazed tomatoes with spanner crab illustrates his innovative approach. It looks as though it’s incredibly simple, but the first bite reveals layers of complexity. A dish of grilled squid continues the duality theme. Though paired with earthy elements including sour corn, kaffir lime and pork jowl, the tender squid is dusted with red ogo, a salty seaweed that evokes the ocean.

A main dish of caramelised pork neck with Davidson plum and grilled greens demonstrates that Devlin is equally adept at cooking with meat and native flora. Another standout entree, served at lunch, is a plate of prawns crumbed with green rice.

The crunchy snacks, on the menu since the restaurant opened in 2015, are the perfect accompaniment to a round of Aperol spritzes on the deck. Add the radicchio and orange salad from the bar menu, and you have a sublime meal to be enjoyed under tropical pandanus trees swaying in the ocean breeze.

Paper Daisy is a place to linger, and with exceptional cocktails, singular wines from Australia and Europe, and agreeable service, you’ll no doubt be tempted to check in to the guest house.

Must eat dish: Green rice crumbed prawns with chilli and ginger pickle salad
Instagram: @_paperdaisy_