In a city obsessed with doughnuts, could a humble little neighbourhood trattoria be serving up some of the best? Three effortlessly fluffy orbs with sugary crunch come on a cloudlike bed of mascarpone, with sharp passionfruit using the power of the tropics to cut through the sweet. These Italian doughnuts – bombolini – are nigh on impossible to beat.

Park Street Pasta and Wine does what it says on the pack: sublime pasta and clever wine on Park Street. And South Melburnians are patting themselves on the back, quietly chuffed that their new neighbour comes baring the gifts of the Italian countryside thanks to chef Nicola Akritidis (formerly of Vue de Monde and Longrain).

You want clever? Minced pork and mortadella polpette (meatballs), crumbed in panko, fried until crisp and juicy and served on a summer-bright pesto comes straight from the why-hasn’t-anyone-done-this-before files.

You want class? Pinched parcels of agnolotti, fat with veal and wild rabbit, dressed in a butter sauce and topped with crunchy fried sage, are one of a half dozen equally accomplished pasta dishes.

You want something to drink? A skin-contact verdicchio from Marche or a chewy Chianti Classico from Tuscany offer a taste of the tight Italian wines on offer, all served in a handsome space by handsome staff.

And of course, there’s those doughnuts. Sometimes the simple things are indeed the best.

Must-eat dish: Fried pork polpette
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