PTL is packed to the rafters on this mid-week afternoon, every seat filled with city lunch-goers who knew to book ahead. Part of the venue’s popularity can be put down to a menu that satisfies both a quick healthy(ish) nosh and a carnivorous feast.

Don’t overlook the “plants” section of the menu, where the kitchen really gets to play. Think “corn ribs”: slabs of kernels sliced from the cob then fried and dusted in a hot seasoning. Or “popcorn broccoli”: crispy fried florets with a sweet chilli sauce that’ll convert veg haters young and old. Plump burrata plopped on mushy braised eggplant takes on a mellower role and comes with toasted slices of focaccia for mopping up.

The hot smoked barramundi rillettes accompanied by housemade potato crisps is another one for sharing and scooping – just be sure to get those pickled shallots in each bite. For something heartier, a serve of 12-hour slow-cooked lamb shoulder is brought to life with punchy jalapeño salsa verde, cool yoghurt and lime, and a welcome herb salad. Desserts include a cheesecake-inspired mousse with lemon curd, roasted strawberry and crumble.

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