At Parwana – the Afghani eatery on busy Henley Beach Rd – it is a simple one … most good stories are. “We are an Afghani family that likes to cook, and we think you’ll like it too. Sit down, let us feed you.”

It’s a philosophy that has seen Parwana talked up around the country and in esteemed journals like The New York Times, which helps explain why every table is full on a rainy Thursday night.

The menu is compact but well considered. The mantu – steamed dumplings stuffed with carrot and onion and topped with lamb mince – is heartwarming fare and teams well with the aromatic narenj palaw (aged long grain rice with candied orange peel, almonds and pistachio).

Banjaan borani turns humble slices of eggplant into something decadent by simmering them in fresh tomato sauce and topping them with garlic, yoghurt and mint. Karayee morgh – pan-fried chicken pieces served with naan, salad and a spicy green chutney – is another highlight.

Desserts such as shiryakh ice cream and halwa semolina pudding are full of those wonderful Afghan flavours of vanilla, cardamom, rosewater and pistachio. Many restaurants attempt to create a homely feel but Parwana achieves it effortlessly. PS: Wine corkage of $10 a bottle goes to homeless charities, so you can feel good about bringing a tipple.

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