As it turns out, Paski is named after Giorgio’s border collie. (The border collie is named after the wine.)

Seek out a bottle downstairs in the blended bar and boutique bottle shop, where natural wines in sunset shades are selected straight from the sleek industrial shelves. Upstairs, the restaurant portion of the venue serves a tight menu of regional Italian plates.

The tiny space includes a combined corner kitchen and dining room, with tables tessellated for maximum headcount. Chef Enrico Tomelleri’s menu focuses on seasonal fare, with only a handful of ingredients on each plate. Start with the tapioca fritti, drizzled in bitter chestnut honey, then follow up with the sausage and rapa crostino, topped with a thicket of sauteed green leaves.

From the three daily pasta options, our pick is the Tuscan-style white ragout made from pork, duck and rooster – which play together nicely in a glossy rosemary-accented sauce. To finish, there’s affogato, made from mascarpone gelato, a shot of espresso and a dash of grappa or spirit of your choice.

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