History tells many compelling tales. While dining at Peacock and Jones, the sands of time speak of the storied past that existed within its sandstone walls. But now, as well as commemorating the past, the heritage building is home to a restaurant pursuing the future of food in the Apple Isle.

Dating from 1823, Peacock and Jones’ home has seen use in the whaling industry, as a former general store (owned by George Peacock) and, of course, as the home of arguably Australia’s most iconic jam manufacturer – IXL Jam (originally owned by Henry Jones). Today, it forms part of the redeveloped waterfront hotel complex named after the jam magnate.

Restaurant manager Emma Devlin not only delivers a masterclass in service – affable, sharp and adding a spark to an occasion – but also shares the building’s history with a wit that’s as appealing as the food sallying forth from the kitchen.

Its open nature lets the chefs tell their own tale to guests dining in the banquette seating set against the stunning sandstone-walled backdrop. In the courtyard, a floating fireplace warms those enjoying a pre-dinner drink as others dine in bucket seats set between wooden pillars.

The contemporary menu, under head chef Jeff Workman (ex-Glass Brasserie, Prime and Galileo), shows off solid technique, an eye for detail and aesthetic, and, most importantly, balance and bags of flavour with each bite.

It’s one of the few meals I’ve experienced where each course added further dimension to the dining experience. Dare I say, every dish even better than the last without losing the lasting impression of what came before.

Pickled carrots, hazelnuts and caraway crown a busted burratina that’s oozing its inner stracciatella all over the plate. Accompanied by crispbread, it’s an ideal start. Then caramelised pumpkin combines with buffalo curd, pine nuts and a wonderful spicy smack of ’nduja. Basil leaves and pine nuts add fragrance and earthiness.

Next, skordalia provides a bed for twice-cooked pork neck – sous vide, then pan-fried – that’s beautifully partnered with Puy lentils, a braised cheek of nectarine, turnip and a wedge of roasted pearl onion. A wonderfully understated dish that’s a lesson in restraint, technique and letting the produce speak for itself.

And although the stilton-based blueberry cheesecake catches my eye, I opt for a celebration of Tasmania’s mulberries and strawberries. A strawberry sorbet brings together meringue, goat’s curd and the fluffy wisps of pashmak (Persian fairy floss) among sharp and sweet strawberries and mulberries. It’s satisfying and deliciously palate cleansing.

Peacock and Jones looks set to make its own mark on Hobart’s history.