But rather than one of the glitzy new constructions often favoured in these settings, the owners have built themselves an eatery full of unpretentious, shack-style charm. Think Star of Greece without the cliff.

Share plates are the order of the day, which suits the casual ambience. Beetroot, pomegranate and walnut is served with warm Turkish pide, a chunk of fried saganaki is drizzled in honey and flecked with fresh oregano and Port Lincoln mussels stuffed with spiced rice, currants and lemon make a hearty and delicious dish. The kingfish crudo is somewhat lacking, but it’s soon forgotten with the arrival of a plate of silver trevally, haloumi and eggplant croquettes in a spicy tomato sauce – a terrific treatment of an often-overlooked South Australian fish.

The vegie quota is filled by a generous offering of roasted cauliflower with mint, red grapes, lentils and tahini that could easily make a meal in itself. Kids are well catered for with a generous serve of fish and chips, and if you’re pressed for time or the restaurant is full there’s a kiosk offering takeaway options.

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