As one of the earliest components of Woolloongabba’s Logan Rd dining precinct, Pearl Cafe has become a Brisbane institution. So when professional winemaker Manita Arnold took over from long-time owner Daniel Lewis late last year, her impact on the venue came under close scrutiny.

Luckily for fans of the eatery, the winning formula seems to have remained relatively unaltered.

The charm and warmth of the heritage building endures with its exposed brick walls, timber floorboards and bentwood chairs, while the staff remains friendly and conscientious, eager to meet diners’ demands, if a little lacking in knowledge on the wine list.

And speaking of vino, as you’d expect with a winemaker at the helm, the offering is both approachable and interesting, with familiar styles from some lesser known Australian and international vineyards.

But it’s always been about the food at Pearl. The restaurant champions quality ingredients with all dishes using free-range eggs and meat and sustainably caught seafood. And the recently launched autumn menu follows the venue’s modern European roots.

Gnocchi coated in an opulent lemon-scented cream melts in the mouth, alongside crisp artichoke for acidity and al dente zucchini halves. An expertly executed saffron and fennel risotto dotted with peas forms a generous bed for crisp-skinned yellowtail kingfish.

Not to be overlooked is a side of roasted carrots, their sweetness amplified with a glazing of honey. A cream cheese-like hung yoghurt provides contrast, while traditional pairings of pine nuts and sultanas make the side more of a satisfying starter.

This is comfort food that will indeed please in a cosy package that looks set to continue its longevity.