But Pearl Chablis and Oyster Bar does more than simply serve shellfish and fine wines in a glossy box of marble, lime-washed timber and velvet upholstery (in a very on-trend shade of dark teal).

Its secret ingredient is Marc-Antoine Nicolaii, the self-described “kitchen executive” who prepares dishes and serves diners like he’s in a relaxed bistro in Provence rather than tucked upstairs in a Melbourne city arcade. He makes diners feel like house guests.

But first, something to drink. Pearl has an exceptional stash of Chablis, the distinctive chardonnay style of northern Burgundy that grows in the limestone soils of ancient seabeds – the perfect match for oysters.

The list has about 500 labels, including top Chablis houses such as François Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat. You could easily drop hundreds on a bottle; thousands for a grand cru. But, equally if, as I did, you ask the sommelier to pick out a winner for under $100, he’ll happily oblige.

He recommends a rich and mouth-watering 2019 Billaud-Simon AC, an absolute bargain at $80. The list also explores Burgundy’s best chardonnay and pinot noir houses, and more diverse wine styles by the glass.

We order oysters – Wapengo Lake, Rusty Wires and Moonlight Kisses – to pair with the Chablis. But first, M. Nicolaii insists, please enjoy a plate of crisp radishes plucked from his Prahran garden.

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Served with crusty bread and cultured butter, if I pop one in my mouth with a sip of Chablis I can almost imagine myself back in the Republic.

The oysters arrive, freshly shucked and deliciously briny-slurpy, with a mignonette sauce stained blood-red by hibiscus. Monsieur brings the rest of the sweet, peppery radishes too, since we’re enjoying them so much.

The concise food menu lists oysters and caviars on one side and snacks on the other. Most, except the poached Murray cod, are small, thrilling tastes rather than a proper meal.

Instead of forking out $195 for 30g of Osetra sturgeon roe, get your fish-egg fix from a clever little sandwich of layered brioche discs topped with Alaskan Malossol caviar and cured egg yolk. It’s a posh, salty mouthful.

Ceviche-style sea bream crudo muddles raw fish with smoked pearl meat, lime juice, compressed apple and mini tomatoes from M. Nicolaii’s friend in Mildura. Flecks of chervil bring some zing.

Fleshy pink mussels quiver in a pool of white wine and mussel stock infused with vadouvan (a spice blend) – “French curry” as chef calls it. Saffron to the fore, a hit of garlic. Very nice.

There’s light and lovely duck liver parfait made from confit livers and a chopped-to-order beef tartare seasoned with cornichons, capers, shallot, chive and ponzu. Chef adds a little fermented chilli instead of mustard, and tops the lot with a confit egg yolk. Served with earthy Jerusalem artichoke crisps, it’s a sensuous flavour bomb.

Pearl is a real gem. For all its superficial glamour, at its heart is a passionate Frenchman eager to share the pleasures of eating well with guests.