Crown Street is one of the city’s most iconic dining strips. But truth be told, some of the best restaurants in the suburb are actually located further down. Clustered around the old Griffith Teas building you’ll find a hidden neighbourhood of nosheries, from modern Thai diner Chin Chin to local hot spot Firedoor, as well as Nomad, Alberto’s Lounge, Poly, and more.

The latest opening has well and truly put the precinct on the map. Taking over the old Bar H site is Pellegrino 2000, a new retro-inspired Italian restaurant from the Bistrot 916 boys.

Pasta master Dan Pepperell along with partners Michael Clift and Andy Tyson have traded up the steak frites for spaghetti alla gricia.

The corner trattoria is split over two levels. Upstairs, a retro dining room of brown leather banquettes and mustard walls brings back the best of the 70’s.

The vibe cools downstairs in the wine cellar, where clothed and candle-lit tables add a little formality to the fun.

Surprisingly, some of the best seats are out on the street. The upstairs bar opens out onto a dedicated wine window, where you can stop mid-stroll for a Sangiovese and snack.

In fact, half of Dan Pepperell’s menu is made up of moreish little morsels, the other being split between pastas and mains.

The chicken liver crostini is a gutsy entree. It’s not pâté nor parfait, but two big blushing livers sitting pertly on a pair of golden toasts. The organs are soaked in milk overnight to produce a soft, succulent texture, then sautéed in brown butter for a rich, nutty taste.

A dish of burrata with anchovies brings together two of the hottest ingredients in the food world. Pepperell has traded up the tinned variety for house-pickled fillets, which come swimming in a spicy, oily pool of tomato salsa that will leave you with a saucy grin.

Just when you think the evening can’t get any better, the prawn ravioli arrives. Each silky prawn-filled pillow is drenched in about a month’s worth of melted butter that will have you wiping the bowl clean.

There are unfilled pastas, too. The spaghetti alla gricia is all killer no filler. Combining aged parmesan and guanciale, it’s everything you love about carbonara and cacio e pepe in one standout dish.

If you’re craving carne, the lamb cotoletta is an Italian take on the classic crumbed cutlet. Peel back the herb and parmesan crust and you’ll find each chop is cooked to rose-pink perfection.

As tempting as it is to order another serve of prawn ravioli, you would be remiss to skip desserts. Your inner child will delight in the limongello – a jellified limoncello set in scooped-out lemon skins. It’s a palate cleanser and party starter in one.

Meanwhile, a crema caramello alla banana brings the drama. A robustly flavoured banana creme caramel is served alongside a silver platter of whipped banana-infused cream (and that’s your monthly cream quota filled now too).

Pellegrino’s signature drink is thankfully not water, but wine. If you’re sitting in the cellar it can be hard to resist the bottles of old Barolo and Chianti that line the surrounding shelves. They also make a mean bellini using prosecco and peach puree with a dash of sherry, á la Harry’s Bar in Venice.

Before you know it, you’re back out on the corner of Foster and Campbell. Now, that’s an address you’ll want to remember.

Related review: Great gastronomy sans the clichés at Dan Pepperell’s new French bistro