Classical Italian dishes and smooth service remain hallmarks of the newest restaurant from the Gambaro family, who also run Gambaro Seafood and the Black Hide steakhouses in Petrie Terrace and at the Treasury casino.

Opening last year in Brisbane Quarter, with views across the freeway to South Bank, this restaurant pays homage to the family’s heritage.

The menu is wide and varies from mussels with white beans and prosciutto to burrata or crunchy fried squid with fennel salad to begin with, an array of house-made pasta, six pizzas, shared mains such as an aged 1kg T-bone, whole fish or lamb shoulder or an outstanding slab of porchetta with pumpkin puree, kale and vincotto.

The apple rhubarb tart, which appears to be designed to resemble the Wheel of Brisbane across the river, is as good as it looks.

Service is adept and professional and the Italian-focused wine list, with some big-hitter Australians as backup, is more than able to match the wide selection of food on offer.

A separate bar has its own snack and pizza menu.

Exceptional dish: porchetta