Perhaps start on the balcony of the bar with a negroni or a prosecco from the wide-ranging, Italian-accented drinks list before moving into the restaurant proper, where captivating views over the Brisbane River to South Bank pull focus.

Kindly staff serve complimentary bread while running guests through the substantial menu, taking in snacks, starters, pasta, pizza and mains. Battered and fried artichokes dipped into a salty anchovy mayonnaise beg to be shared, as does the paper-thin-based Toscana pizza generous with artichokes, prosciutto, olives, tomato and mozzarella cooked in an electric oven rather than over wood.

Demanding to be savoured for itself though is the lobster tagliolini, with perfectly al dente pasta in a vibrant, lemony, tomato and olive oil sauce plenteous with crustacean. Meat lovers may find equal joy in the crackling-ringed, herb-infused porchetta on roasted capsicum puree. Persone delivers family-style Italian fare made that little bit more special, in a setting that wows.

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