Mouchel’s traditional yet innovative French cooking beneath bustling Collins Street is perhaps still the best-value fancy lunch you’ll find in town, with a well-priced set menu for two or three courses that includes a glass of wine. (Unless of course you want to get a bottle from the favourably French wine list).

Maybe you’ll try the Paul Bocuse protege’s salmon gravlax, which sees blushing magenta velvety coils, artfully plated with wafer potato crisps and dressed up in herbs, zingy grapefruit and pink peppercorn. (Mouchel’s mentor Bocuse was a household name in France whose Lyon restaurant held onto three Michelin stars for a record 55 years.) Or maybe you’ll try his signature roast chook, spun on the trademark rotisserie until charry, blistered yet juicy within, wading in a robust red wine glaze and firm kipflers. A real delight.

Finish with a feather-light dark-chocolate mousse or sip of honeyed sauternes to understand why Philippe is as timeless as ever.

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