Sometimes the simple things really are the best. And when a grey day needs brightening, Philippe Mouchel’s famous rotisserie chook remains a failsafe hug of comfort that has made countless Melburnians smile for every good reason.

Golden of skin, juicy of flesh and rich with buttery goodness, with garlicky beans and a pot of coq au vin to the side (too much chicken is never enough) and you have a plate of textbook happiness that everyone should treat themselves to once a year.

This comfortable, wonderfully handsome subterranean hideaway remains the standard-bearer for fabulous French in the city. Served in hefty ceramic shells, fat escargot come literally drowning in butter, while a chestnut and mushroom veloute is a walk through a misty forest, the soup silken, sublime and utterly unforgettable. 

While the Victorian/French wine list spends a lot of its time in the three figures, a terrific selection of wines by the glass and carafe caters to those who just want to drink, not think, as do oysters at the bar for the post-knockoff happy hour.

Charming service helps keep an established crowd on repeat, while Philippe on the pass ensures standards remain as high as ever, such as a superb blackberry sorbet served alongside a modern version of Mont Blanc.

Must Eat Dish: Escargot en coquilles