It’s the glassy, crisp crackling and gloriously wobbly, sweet flesh that make it nigh on impossible not to order Pilu’s famous suckling pig. Slow-cooked and so good, you could do worse than order one for entrée, main and for dessert. But, the real desserts are worth considering too, and so too is the rest of the menu.

The northern beaches homage to Sardinia is a seductive little slice of Italian joy. On the beach at Freshwater, and housed in a big old heritage beach house, Pilu is a lesson in professional service with a side of smart-casual atmosphere.

The wine list is an extraordinary journey through the regions of Italy and now with former Osteria di Russo & Russo chef Jason Saxby running the kitchen, he and co-owner Giovanni Pilu have created a contemporary spin on the simplicity of Sardinian food.

Start with a delicately smoked mullet and celeriac ‘panada’ (like a light empanada) with a touch of horseradish. Then nduja, tomato and chilli add spark to sweet cuttlefish tossed in cuttlefish ink tonnarelli. Then the autumnal mushroom-ness of barramundi lands in a smoked ham consommé, and get a slab of that suckling porker, too.

Just save room for the Sardinian pastry filled with ricotta and sultanas, which is a delight drizzled in honey, while a coffee parfait and dark chocolate gelato will keep the sweet tooths satisfied.

But Pilu is much more than a great restaurant, you can drop in for breakfast on weekends, hire it out for a wedding, and even grab breakfast, or a suckling pig sandwich from Baretto (attached to the side of the building) before dipping your toes in the water. Magic.

Must eat dish: ‘Melanda Park’ free range, oven roasted suckling pig
Instagram: @pilurestaurant