Hidden in the suburban streets of Alexandria, you’d never know it was there. And although locals may prefer to keep Pino’s Vino e Cucina a secret, it’s just too good not to share. This trattoria-cum-tavern is the perfect spot for a tipple or bite of contemporary Italian and the genuine hospitality flows as freely as the amaro nightcaps.

Owned by Italian panhandler Matteo Margiotta, Pino’s is a warm, almost yesteryear tavern in feel with white ceilings and thick brown beams, wooden floorboards, and, well, wood everywhere – including a beautiful, big, sit-and-dine bar. The cocktails hold their own against any high-end saloon and the wine list is succinct, accessible and slightly adventurous, mimicking the attitude of the modern-meets-traditional, Italian-accented food from chef Margiotta.

Grilled peach is veiled by prosciutto and torn buffalo mozzarella in a standout starter. Asparagus and pea greens add earthy sweetness to creamy burrata. Pickled onion and ricotta top a crisp Ligurian chickpea pancake (farinata) with a satisfyingly chewy centre. Then cannellini and octopus combine with salsa verde, yet an accompanying nduja spread (spicy salami) barely registers. Squid ink gnocchetti gets a sweet kiss from spanner crab and a spicy hit from fresh chilli, while wild boar ragu benefits from the textural trenette pasta made onsite.

Pino’s is every bit brilliant old-school hospitality, given new blood by some young pros. The secret’s out, so go and get a taste.

Must-eat dish: Squid Ink Gnocchetti sardi, spanner crab, vermouth, bottarga
Instagram: @pinos_vino_e_cucina