He follows time-honoured methods to make his pizza, starting with doppio zero flour and finishing with lightly blistered crusts and generous toppings.

The Salsiccia e Friarielli teams lightly seared house-made pork sausage with friarielli (or rapini, the bitter Italian broccoli). The Funghi is strong on garlic-infused ’shroom taste.

True to Naples, the menu is a hit-list of a small number of can’t-fail classics – you won’t find ham and pineapple here. Pizza stands keep the table free for plates and elbows.

Indulge in a few sides: the cotechino sausage is a standout – pan-fried and served with roasted peppers and salsa verde. Dessert is kept simple: gelato, Nutella and marscapone pizza, and a double-espresso affogato.

A terrazzo floor and industrial fit-out bounces the R&B tunes and chatter of the young crowd – this is more mates night than date night.

Get the clued-up staff to talk you through the Italian-inspired red list where Freddy Nerks abuts Big Easy Radio and Some Young Punks, along with a couple of full-blooded imports.