Cancel your plane ticket. The Greek islands are coming to you this summer. Veteran chef Peter Conistis of Alpha and Omega fame has opened a waterfront restaurant inspired by the sunbaked islands of the South Aegean Sea. Ploos, which translates to “sail” in Greek, has dropped anchor at Campbell’s Stores, a row of heritage-listed warehouses at The Rocks on the Sydney Harbour foreshore.

You may have already heard of Peter Conistis. As the legend goes, the acclaimed chef opened his first restaurant, Cosmos, in his 20s, with no culinary experience whatsoever. Within months, Cosmos was considered one of the best restaurants in the city – and this was a time when haloumi and hummus were not yet household names.

So, what’s left to do once you’ve already conquered the Alpha and the Omega? Thirty years on, Conistis is breaking new ground with a regionally-inspired restaurant that celebrates the little-known cuisines of Cyprus and Crete.

The historic Campbell Stores building is a spectacular location for the new alfresco venue. The original sandstone walls have their own temple-like quality, enhanced by a display of oversized urns and colourful pieces of pottery. A hanging installation of unbleached calico fabric waves majestically overheads, like a ship ready to sail.

Despite the luxurious furnishings, it’s hard to beat a spot on the waterfront promenade. The open-air terrace has been set with rattan lounge chairs and olive trees, while the gently lapping water of Sydney Harbour provides the perfect seaside soundtrack.

Splash out on cocktails – you’re on holidays after all. A walnut espresso martini adds a nutty twist to the city’s favourite sipper, or try the Ploos negroni, which uses both gin and mastika – a pine-scented spirit.

The menu starts with meze. Seriously, who needs mains when you can snack on fat little Cypriot sausages and stuffed vine leaves all night long? A simple dish of Abrolhos octopus suspended in taramasalata will bring long-forgotten Grecian holidays to mind. A single tentacle delivers an almighty sucker punch, combining soft, succulent flesh with crunchy, blackened caps. Served with a salty lick of cod roe and a tangle of wild herbs, it’s so darn delicious it’ll make you want to sing and dance.

Haloumi with fennel? Yes, ploos! A shining slab arrives slashed with black tyre marks of char atop a bed of candied fennel. Ploos swaps up the chilli flakes for sun-dried Turkish isot pepper that adds smoky, fruity flavours with a hint of lingering heat.

In place of the slow-cooked leg of lamb there’s the tomahawk, a Homeric take on the classic lamb cutlet. Conistis reinvents the dinnertime favourite with two centaur-sized chops cooked to blushing pink perfection and ridged with an arc of creamy fat.

If you’re in the mood for something fresh, skip the sides and order the nissiotiki salad instead. Inspired by the classic Greek salad, this island version mixes traditional ingredients like heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and olives with the fresh sea flavours of pickled samphire and urchin roe.

Greek wines make a rare appearance on the drinks list, so take the opportunity to try a few drops. The line-up includes a number of approachable and easy-drinking vinos from across the Hellenic nation, with a focus on indigenous varietals like Limniona and Xinomavro.

We’ve all heard the saying, beware of Greeks bearing gifts. Well, if it’s a plate of fig loukoumades, then we’re taking our chances. Inspired by the famous honey-drenched doughnut balls, this modern rendition is made from battered and deep-fried figs served with a jammy blackberry glyko. We’ll be back to try the galaktoboureko, a Greek custard pie with beetroot.

Once again, Conistis casts off into uncharted territory, and it’s a delicious journey from beginning to end. The legacy continues.

Related review: Oh la la! Chic new bistro Loulou lands in Lavender Bay