The hip, inner-city sister to Chippendale’s Ester has well and truly moved out of its sibling’s shadow. Located on the basement level of Paramount House Hotel, the sexy, subterranean space offers the perfect place for drinks, snacks or dinner, or preferably all three. The industrial-inspired interiors manage to feel both modern and organic at once, with raw brick and polished concrete softened by honey timber and crimson banquettes.

Start with fermented potato bread: a griddled hot pocket slathered with sesame whip and cooked on coals. Follow up with the golden potato cake showered in egg-yolk snow. If you’re staying for dinner, upgrade to the hanger steak, coated in a jammy pepper glaze with an oozy cheese sauce made from melted-down reblochon.

For dessert, lemon pie and pavlova come together in a meringue masterpiece pocketed with candied chunks of lemon rind and Meyer lemon marmalade.

The wine list is just as varied – choose from an approachable line-up of low-fi wines organised by style rather than varietal. With so much to choose from, your best course of action might be to get one of everything.

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.