What a cracker. Poly opened last year with much fanfare, as the culinary musings of star chef Mat Lindsay (Ester) took new shape in the guise of a walk-in wine bar. Although we loved its initial persona, Lindsay, together with head chef Isabelle Caulfield, has taken the menu to new heights, all the while maintaining that signature style. Add to that one of the best front of house teams in the business, a global treasure box of natural wines and the atmosphere of a house party and you have one hell of a cracker of a venue.

The large industrial space has high benches that run two perimeters of the building, while another has banquettes that run along to the tiny kitchen in the corner. In the centre there is a sea of tables, some communal, where small groups bend the arm and tuck into the ever-evolving culinary swagger of Lindsay. Yuzu Koshu adds the citrus zing to plump Abrolhos Island scallops. Fried potato bread is cut into four squares and topped with salted egg yolk (a must order), while pear mustard and pickled walnut play masterfully with a rich pigs head terrine. New season pine mushrooms are breathtakingly beautiful tossed in a beer and yeast sauce, while burnt chermoula – taken to the point of hesitation, is glorious with the silky seduction of a whole green back flounder. Good lord, this duo can cook.