With an industrial fit-out with lashings of rusted metal and polished concrete floors and curved bars, this top-level Eagle Street Pier restaurant makes dining easy and interesting. A one-page menu contains all you need to know, with appetisers and desserts included with larger dishes from the sea, farm and garden.

Wagyu pastrami, with piquant house-made ketchup, pickle and scatterings of puffed rye is three bites worth and a great starter. French hard cheese comte is whipped and aerated into a mousse and blanketed over fresh and preserved figs sweet with smoked honey, and topped with large kale chips. A terrific dish to share.

Wagyu pastrami, with piquant house-made ketchup, pickle and scatterings of puffed rye is three bites worth and a great starter. French hard cheese comte is whipped and aerated into a mousse and blanketed over fresh and preserved figs sweet with smoked honey, and topped with large kale chips. A terrific dish to share. Of the larger meals, pork loin, slow-cooked for 14 hours, comes with a generous crackling crust, half a roast pear and a lemony thyme barley risotto. Of the three desserts, the quirky take on the traditional popsicle is a popular finale — a vanilla ice cream wedge dipped in salted caramel and dusted with pistachio nuts. The wine list is particularly well-conceived and outstanding in by-the-glass offerings, with lesser-known American, French and Austrian labels represented. Waiters cheerfully explain the menu and are drilled on every dish, making this a memorable experience to enjoy by the river.

Exceptional dish: slow-cooked pork, roast pear, barley, lemon, thyme risotto