Perched on the edge of the Brisbane River, Pony is a restaurant with serious wow-factor.

While the water view may captivate, so too does the handsome interior, seamlessly uniting industrial elements such as a concrete bar and floors, and curved metal detailing with shots of greenery and touches of cow hide for a space that feels comfortable yet carefully put-together.

Acclaimed chef Michael Crosbie is at the pans in the open kitchen, harnessing the signature woodfired grill and the finest local ingredients to create elevated dishes that flaunt creativity, individuality and finesse.

Take, for example, a starter of eel brandade sandwiched between two hand-cut potato crisps with freshwater caviar that pops in the mouth bringing salt and texture. Or perhaps spanner crab, the sweet, fresh meat hidden beneath crunchy Jerusalem artichoke chips and a fine grating of Parmesan, which brings an umami hit worth crying over.

Steaks are a signature of the grill, but mains such as pork jowl are equally memorable, the tender, fatty meat met by crumbles of pork crackle, blackened pear segments, chestnut cream and turnip.

Desserts pair savoury and sweet elements in a modern manner – think ‘milk and honey’ containing honey parfait, mead, bee pollen and toasted hay ice cream – while the imaginative cocktail list brings sweet treats in liquid form, such as a ‘banoffee pie’ swizzled with Pampero rum, crème de banane, cream, butterscotch, caramel and a biscuit crumb.

Meanwhile, the predominantly Australian wine offering blends big-name labels with small, boutique producers well matched to the menu. Solid service rounds out an upscale dining experience that doesn’t horse around.

Must-eat dish: Pork jowl
Instagram: @ponydiningeaglestreetpier