On a clear day, you can see Phillip Island from Port Phillip Estate.

But the best views at this stark ’n’ stylish winery are sometimes right in front of you. Behold the suckling pig with celeriac and boudin noir, the roasted pumpkin soufflé with chai ice cream, the fig mille-feuille. Chef Stuart Deller’s cooking is more approachable and exciting than ever. Roasted Murray cod with warrigal greens, whipped roe and razorback prawns is one of the most delicious dishes we’ve eaten this year.

Executed with aplomb, Deller’s seasonally attuned fare teams well with Port Phillip’s elegant cool-climate wines. Nattily attired staffers are the full bottle on the terroir of each vineyard and guide you with gentle professionalism. Many diners linger by the open fire after a meal here or visit the cellar door, enjoying the scenery and wondering why they should ever leave.

Must Eat Dish: Murray cod and razorback prawns