Perhaps it’s the exception that proves the rule. But don’t think the extraordinary, delicious vista across the vines through to Western Port in the distance is doing all the work in Port Phillip Estate’s architecturally impressive dining room.

For Stuart Deller’s smart, Euro-influenced menu is an equal match, where the serves are as generous as the appeal is broad. Whether a twirl of perfect tagliolini on which a fillet of excellent red mullet seasoned with bottarga lays, or a wobbly plinth of pork jowl served with apple ketchup and Jerusalem artichoke crisps, this is flavour-first cooking that’s approachable and clever in equal measure.

Hearty cauliflower spaetzle tossed through capers and olives is a win for the veg team, while the focused wine list celebrates the estate and peninsula, with a few Burgundies and Italians thrown in for good measure.

To finish, caramelised apple terrine, made from fruit from just down the road and drizzled with estate honey, is an elegantly sweet finale. And then all that’s left is to sit back, finish your bottle of Kooyong pinot and drink in that view.

Must eat dish: Caramelised Red Hill apple terrine, Sawyer Road chestnut ice cream
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