19. Porteño, Surry Hills

Porteño, Surry Hills.

Steak may have been what lured you here, but there’s more to this Argentinian joint than just good carne. Don’t get us wrong; chefs Ben Milgate and Elvis Albrahanowicz are the pros when it comes to the pleasures of the flesh. They’re even got the contraptions – an asador spit roast and parilla grill – to prove it. Blushing slices of charred grain-fed sirloin come smothered in sweet smoke and finished with a lubricating yolk, while soft shreds of suckling pig are stacked with wafer-thin crackle and spoonfuls of habanero salsa. It’s a lot of pressure from the proteins, but the vegies hold their own. Brussels sprouts refuse to be wallflowers, the crispy buds tossed with lentils and mint in a fresh vinegary dressing, while charred zucchini strips are heaped with wobbly ricotta and brought to life with chilli. If you were expecting ranch interiors, think again. Gaucho gimmicks have been bypassed for a smart bistro feel, which pairs chequered floors with plump burgundy banquettes. There’s also a sit-in bar that spans the room, a perfect spot to sit and watch the roaring firepit with a malbec in hand. Curated by Joseph Valore, the 300-strong wine list spans South America, Europe and Australia with a reserve selection of Latin beauties stored in the glass-walled cellar.

50 Holt St Surry Hills NSW 2010

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