I thought they’d gone mad. Move Porteno from such an iconic space? They must have rocks in their heads.

The former site, on Cleveland St, was a hub of great food, flowing booze and rollicking good times. Though I had doubts about the relocation, optimism circled like a hungry shark.

After all, this is no ordinary restaurant group. Bodega changed our perceptions of what constitutes a night out in Sydney. Porteno magnified it.

That monolithic beast is now reserved for private events. Recently, the doors swung open on 50 Holt St to shed light on a new dawn for Porteno.

The venue, once home to Movida Sydney, has been gutted and given the sharp, signature touches we’ve come to expect from the formidable five.

Ben Milgate, Rachael Doyle, Sarah Doyle, Joe Valore and Elvis Abrahanowicz are at it again.

The evolution makes perfect sense. Gone is the mystery of what lay in wait. The new Porteno is about transparency with floor-to-ceiling windows giving passers-by a view of modern dining.

There are still animals on crosses and grills being flame-licked, but something more considered is going on, too.

A dish of fried school prawns with slivers of pickled veal tongue, for instance, offers a surprising umami burst. Equally compelling is a delicate seafood salad enlivened with a lick of habanero and paired with plantain tostones. Another refined starter is the wood-roasted crab salad served with charred cos lettuce.

More substantial fare from the woodfired grill includes wild mulloway with shredded beetroot, chicken with fennel and the “animal of the day”.

The new Porteno is an exhilarating example of the moment professionalism and hedonism collide. Dinner is barely over and you’re plotting your return.