The original Cleveland Street Porteño (now a function venue by the same group) altered our perceptions of dining and triggered the wave of casual-natured eateries that placed emphasis on atmosphere, fun, good times and cracking food that’s ideal to share.

It’s hard to believe but the Porteño Group (Bodega, Bodega 1904, Stanbuli, Continental Delicatessen, Mary’s, LP’s Quality Meats) 2.0 version of Porteño, now on Holt Street, is even better than the original. Sure, we miss the stunning building, but this more refined, sharper, focused offering has freed itself of the meat den tag (though the meat is still bloody good) with more delicate, refined dishes that chefs Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate suggest are more in line with their original vision for the first Porteño – before the animals on crosses took over.

The Surry Hills corner spot boasts floor-to-ceiling windows that wrap around the building. Inside there are still animals on crosses being kissed by the fire, but there is something special at play. You can sit in the bar, on big round tables to share, or grab your own table and tuck into some of the most satisfying spin on Argentinian in Australia. Whipped ricotta and pecans play a stellar supporting role for wood-roasted beetroot. Tahini and garlic add richness to tuna tartare. Wood-fired fish of the day (flathead, in our case) comes with coconut rice beans and pepita sauce, and grilled wagyu skirt gets sweetness from roasted capsicum.

Oh, and don’t fear – they still do a wood-roasted animal of the day (suckling pork or lamb) and their famous sprouts too. Coupled with an extraordinary Argentinian- and Italian-heavy wine list and service with all the swing and swagger of a ‘50s hit song, Porteño is the ultimate mix of professional and party that has you planning your next visit before you’re out the door.

Must-eat dish: Salt Cod Potato Dumplings
Instagram: @portenosydney