It’s loud, brash and jam-packed with revelry, and although Prince of York appears to be another run-of-the-mill CBD swill house-cum-restaurant, what’s actually happening here in regards to service, wine and on the plate is really quite exciting. With multiple floors layered with mezzanine levels and all manner of nooks and crannies – the main bar, a restaurant/wine bar (Cellar) and a nightclub (Pamela’s) beneath – Prince of York is cleverly designed to make each space feel intimate, even though it’s licensed for more than 300.

Housed in an 1878 warehouse building, Prince of York has some pretty cool cats behind it: Paul Schulte (formerly of Keystone Group), Ed Loveday (Acme), Andy Emerson (Acme) and Sam Bull (Icebergs Dining Room) it’s quickly become the hottest ticket in town for a big night out. The restaurant itself is smart and grungy with exposed brick, a concrete bar, black and white Stephen Dupont photos, intimate bench seating, and long tubular metal light fixtures including a large ensemble hanging above the bar. The music is loud, the energy is high, the wine list is solid and the cocktails are flowing. In the kitchen, chef Sam Bull delivers a smorgasbord of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean-inspired dishes that respect simplicity and creativity in the same brief. A runny-yolk fried egg atop a cheese and bone marrow toastie arrives next to caper-heavy venison tartare. A rich, umami-laden pasta of spanner crab, basil, chilli and spaghetti served in a bag while extra-large tomahawk lamb chops, flame-licked and pink inside come with a sharp and refreshing onion and sumac salad. Finish with a choice of four pies – apple, lemon meringue, banoffee or chocolate ganache – before heading downstairs to dance the night away.