However, Peter Gilmore’s flagship fine diner has never looked or felt fresher.

The dining room has had a facelift – spotted gum tables have been brought in, along with custom-made leather chairs and a royal blue carpet that stretches endlessly out to sea. The showpiece remains the Sydney Opera House, whose glowing white sails can be admired from all angles.

When it comes to the 10-course tasting menu, Gilmore is at the top of his game. 

A grown-up dish of smoked eel cream with oscietra caviar proves it’s still young at heart with the playful addition of sea cucumber crackling. Asian flavours come to the fore in a bowl of native marron in a heady gochujang and yuzu broth – tom yum indeed.

The snow egg has been surpassed by white coral: a snap-frozen ganache sculpture served on a seabed of fragrant feijoa ice cream. Five different beverage pairings are available, as well as cocktails made from Quay’s signature Four QQQQ botanic gin, distilled with mandarin, bee pollen and meadowsweet. Cheers to you Quay – and to many more good years ahead.

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.