Make no bones about it, Peter Gilmore is one of the most important chefs in Australia’s culinary history.

A chef that is as innately connected to the produce he uses as he is in the knowledge of the best cooking techniques to let them tell their story.

Quay has been on the World’s Best list many times for good reason — it is quite extraordinary and a wonderful expression of what it means to dine in Australia.

Scintillating views of Sydney Harbour — including our famous nuns in a scrum that houses The Fink Group’s other powerhouse establishment Bennelong — may sweep you off your feet, but Peter Gilmore and chef Robert Kabboord’s interpretation of contemporary cuisine will leave you speechless. A deep connection to provenance, they balance harmony, elegance and experience on each plate with food so beautiful it’ll distract you from the view.

A cured egg, ama ebi prawn and sea urchin roe join koshihikari rice in an umami broth. Fermented mushrooms and young walnuts are bolstered by delicately smoked eel. Mud crab adds a sense of luxe to the culinary hug of warm congee. Then Murray cod plumbs the depths of an umami broth.

Then you’re left with the challenge: Do I devour the infamous snow egg or Gilmore’s eight-textured chocolate triumph?

Must eat dish: Snow egg