It’s a rainy Saturday night and we have no chance of catching a glimpse of the beach through the sodden dune vegetation as we cruise down Hervey Bay’s lengthy Esplan­ade on our way to dinner.

The Fraser Coast city seems virtually deserted until we catch sight of a couple of pods of Pokemon Go enthusiasts – the green glow from their smartphone screens a dead giveaway – lurking near some playground equipment.

A little further on and we discover where everyone else is – they’re making their way into Coast Restaurant & Bar, opposite the beach in the suburb of Torquay.

I’d nabbed a booking a couple of days earlier by agreeing to come at 6pm; the ­following night was booked out. The menu of “small bites”, mid-sized tasting plates, “meats to share”, and a range of salad and vegetable dishes seems to have broad ­appeal, with the clientele a mix of a large gathering out the back, families with small children, older couples and groups of twenty­somethings scattered around the airy, functional room complete with raked ceilings, grey tiled floors, bare wooden ­tables and pendant lights.

Grilled Hervey Bay half-shell scallops with parsley, lemon and caper butter ­($3.50 each) were pleasant enough and my son raved about his steamed bun of ­buttermilk fried chicken, pickled cucumber and Sriracha mayonnaise ($4.50).

Shared meat options ran to Korean roasted chicken and a 950g slow-roasted lamb shoulder, which both looked attractive as they sailed past on their way to other tables. We shared a half-size serve of ­bourbon-glazed beef short ribs ($25) and a dish of well-rendered pork belly, water­melon, spring onions, herbs, peanuts and fried shallots ($24.50). Both were simple dishes, ably executed. A salad of pear, ­rocket, candied walnuts, parmesan and vincotto ($11) was also plentiful.

The drinks list is sizeable, with a large ­collection of beers and spirits and a few ­internationals among the mainly Australian, reasonably comprehensive, array of wines.

The Coast banana split is a hefty finale, served in a wooden dish the size of a dugout canoe, with a ladyfinger, crushed peanuts, banana ice cream, milk chocolate mousse and caramel peanut popcorn ($16) working in harmony.

Perhaps because it’s so busy, service is workmanlike and swift, although the ­starter of whole, fried school prawns I asked for never arrived.

I was also disappointed that since we were only metres from the ocean, there was no fish on the menu beyond a starter of Hiramasa Kingfish sashimi.

That aside, Coast has been on the scene since late 2010 and offers a confident, ­assured package that is obviously working.

Originally published on couriermail.com.au