My chef friend keeps on saying he can’t believe he is seeing the dishes being presented to him. “This is not club food,” he says several times over the course of the evening. “This is not club food.”

It’s a miserable night but the gleaming hotel-like foyer, with its two storey chandelier, relieves the gloom outside.

Those in the know have been enjoying the experience for more than six months now since Rawson’s opened and while some locals like it, other club patrons look a little uncomfortable in the smart surrounds of comfy chairs, glass, brass, steel and raised dining platforms.

There are a few in, a couple and the in-laws/parents of one, a group of local Chinese speakers and an official, RSL badge-sporting serious-looking group in the corner, among several others.

Chef Nick Whitehouse’s opening gambit is a complementary tomato veloute served in a shot glass and while it might be a little cliched in the vein of a five-star hotel it’s a nice warm welcome.

From the ever-changing entrees we choose a beef tartare “John Dee” which is a bud of beef, mushroom, truffle and egg yolk, wrapped in slivers of radish. There is a special tonight, pork terrine, lightly poached apple and a drizzle of piccalilli sauce which disappears too quickly.

Four slices of “OG” housesmoked salmon ($16.05) comes with capers, rye crumb, cultured cream and a little dill.

Talking of which the staff here could be nothing further from that with Kate, who looks after us, is fully informed on all dishes, says she has tried them all and suggests those she likes plus their potential wine matches wines from a list with too few highlights.

Mains include a massive meaty and beautifully seasoned Berkshire pork chop (27.55) on parsnip mash and crisped black pudding, although texture of the apple gel leaves me cold. We add on fantastic wood roasted mushrooms (9.50) as a side.

There is a hefty slab of market fish ($28), in this case jewfish, with a slightly too cold slaw. The spuds in the potato salad (7.60) have been boiled so are a little watery but the tangy dressing boosts its appeal. Salt and pepper prawns ($31.55) will appease Asian palates.

Desserts amp up with the a top-notch raspberry souffle ($12.25), a creditable cherry financier (12.25) and whisky-rubbed gruyere to finish off with coffee.

If you can’t believe the above dishes come from a club, you need to turn your eyes away from town and to opportunities which may be just around the corner.

This review originally appeared on dailytelegraph.com.au.