It seems we may have got Canberra wrong. Or at least, while we are happily assuming the nation’s capital is about as Penny Plain as our polis, the arts and food communities are setting the scene alight.

The National Art Gallery’s importance speaks for itself, and a few years ago Monster Kitchen and Bar, under the guidance of Sean McConnell, sparked a new wave of dining, and ever since a roaring rumble of new restaurants and bars have torn through the capital with as much sway as the path-carvers in big sisters Sydney and Melbourne.

Pilot, Temporada, Bar Rochford, Kyo Coffee Project, Otis Dining and Raku joined the likes of heavyweights Italian and Sons, Ottoman and Aubergine.

The latest to snub its nose at the collective pale perception of Canberra is McConnell’s Rebel Rebel in New Acton.

Co-owned with his wife Jenny Harders, Rebel Rebel not only answers the call of the wild new wave, it speaks of Canberra’s burgeoning anti-establishment food culture.

Designer Sam Rice has made good use of the small space, where minimalism manifests in warm brown tones, natural light, concrete walls and floors, and a wonderful ceiling installation like exposed rafters in a barn featuring reclaimed hardwoods from demolished public housing. The restaurant’s collateral – menu, serving paper – is inspired by early David Bowie art with obscure sketches of unnamed beings, while the playlist meanders through the marvellous and murky muses of Bowie, The Ramones and the Kinks. It’s let-your-hair-down fun.

Certainly, they’ve given themselves a big assignment  – open breakfast lunch and dinner, seven days a week. They’re either not that keen on sleep or have managed to source some excellent staff. Indeed, it seems to be the latter with waitstaff not only omnipresent, but with a natural willingness to ensure a good time without too much fuss.

The wine list is just as proudly local as it is a champion of good wines to drink right now, and if you’re looking for a wine to ride through the meal, the Mada Blanc (Gewurztraminer/Gris/Riesling) from Canberra is on the money.

McConnell may have sent out smoke signals of his culinary skills at Monster, but here his cooking is more subtle and restrained. It’s a wonderful wistfulness of maturity where produce comes first, and a smart, yet simple execution, elevates it. I could eat his food everyday.

Start with two, golden, crisp corn and manchego croquettes. Dip them into an outrageously rich and addictive prawn-head aioli before an audible crunch that’s followed by the creamy, salty, sweet, corny joy within. Holy moly, waiter I’ll take a half dozen.

Grilled piadina (Italian flatbread) houses the sweetness of caramelised onions and currants that combine with pine nuts and the oily allure of two pan-seared sardine fillets.

Then, as McConnell calls it, the ‘Gene Simmons moment’ arrives: two long, pointed slices of ox tongue, first poached then grilled, loll on the plate beside parsley and bright-red swathe of peppers charred and taken from their skins. Meanwhile, a neat trifecta – the textural treat of pangrattato, grassiness of new-season asparagus, and savoury swagger of creamy lavato makes for a solid side dish.

Finish with an amaro-laced marmalade cake topped with almonds and fennel ice cream and you’ll be in a quandary as to which dish burnt the house down. But you needn’t bother yourself with such a heated debate, just be a rebel and make another booking.

Best Cocktail: Side car
Best Seat: By the windows
Hot Tip: Nab the seats at the counter
Must Try: Corn and manchego croquets with prawn head aioli